Nayong Miao clothing

Guizhou
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The Qing Miao costume is the most complete costume representative of the Miao costumes in Nayong County. Nayong County is located in the western part of Guizhou Province and the southern part of Bijie Prefecture. It is a county where Han, Miao, Yi, Bai, Buyi, Hui, Dong, Zhuang and other ethnic groups live together. The Qing Miao in Nayong County is one of the four Miao branches of the Nayong Miao. They live in 15 Miao villages in Qinglin, Baixing, Zhangjiawan and Shuidong towns in Nayong County, with a total of more than 500 households and more than 4,000 people. Baixing, Zhangwei and Shuidong towns are located in the southeast and south of Nayong. The Qing Miao live in Qinglin at an altitude of more than 2,000 meters, with remote transportation, far away from the market and the market. The geographical environment where the Nayong Qing Miao lives is very harsh. They mainly live in high mountain Qinglin, and their number is extremely small. They call themselves "a nation lost in the deep mountains and old Qinglin." In normal times, they cultivate, plant, weave and weave by themselves, and live a natural life with men farming and women weaving. Their language belongs to the Miao branch of the Miao-Yao language family of the Sino-Tibetan language family. Nayong belonged to Hanyang during the Qin Dynasty, was a part of Pingyi County during the Western Han Dynasty, belonged to Hezhou and Tangwangzhou during the Tang Dynasty, was called Luoshi Guiguo during the Song Dynasty, was the Xuanfu Division, Xuanwei Division and Anfu Division of Shunyuan Road during the Yuan Dynasty, and was renamed Guizhou in the Ming Dynasty, and the Guizhou Xuanwei Division was established, and later changed to the Guizhou Shuixi Xuanwei Division. In the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Kangxi established the three prefectures of Dading, Qianxi and Pingyuan in Shuixi, and Nayong was under the jurisdiction of Dading. In the early Republic of China, the prefecture was abolished and the county was established. Most of Nayong was under the jurisdiction of Dading County. The county system was established in July of the 30th year of the Republic of China and remains to this day. According to historical data, this ethnic group lived in the hinterland of Guizhou in the Ming Dynasty and became a resident of Guizhou. But they lived in the current place in the third year of Kangxi (1664). Wu Sangui suppressed Shuixi. Shuixi Xuanwei Envoy Ankun (Yi leader) led the various ethnic groups in Shuixi territory to resist. After the failure of the Shuixi battle, the Miao people fled everywhere to avoid the war. They hid in the forests at an altitude of more than 2,000 meters at the junction of Liuzhi, Zhijin and Nayong, and lived by hunting, which was how they survived. This Miao people living in Heiyang Daqing became another branch of the Miao people, the Jing Miao. In terms of dress, the Nayong Miao people have the most outstanding headdress. The headdress is in the shape of an ox horn, made of black hair, 3 meters long and weighing 2 kilograms, and coiled into a "V"-shaped high bun. According to the "Huainanzi Qi Suxun", "San Miao has a bun head". The ethnic origin of the Miao people is closely related to the "Jiuli", "San Miao" and "Nanman" in ancient times. Many scholars and experts define the "Bun head" as the headdress of the Miao people living in Nayong and other places. Since the headdresses of this branch of Miao people are made of a large wooden comb, black wool, hair, horse mane, etc., twisted into thin threads and tied up in a high bun on the top of the head, revealing two horns, with traces of imitation of horns or the moon, this headdress is used as evidence of "Sanmiao hair bun" to prove the relationship between Miao people and ancient "Sanmiao". "Shan Hai Jing Da Nan Huang Jing" records: "Chi You's ears are like swords and halberds, and his head has horns. He fights with Xuanyuan and touches people with his horns, and people cannot resist." This has become the materialized evidence of the relationship between Miao people and Sanmiao and Chi You. From many materials reflecting the headdresses of various ethnic groups, among the 56 ethnic groups in China, only Miao people have ox horn ornaments, and ox horn hair ornaments are closest to the headdresses of Chi You and Sanmiao recorded in Han literature. This part of Miao people is typical, which reflects from one aspect that the relationship between Nayong Miao people and Sanmiao people is long-standing. The uprisings of Miao people in northwestern Guizhou during the Xianfeng and Tongzhi periods of the Qing Dynasty caused a great shock to the entire Miao people in northwestern Guizhou. The Miao villages that lived on both sides of Liuchong River and in today's Juren, Nayong, were finally dispersed and migrated to various places during this period. In addition to the direct cause of the war, the reason for their migration was that with the implementation of the floating official system by the Qing government, the Han people and others entered Nayong to settle down after the land reform, the local forces of the Yi people could not protect themselves, and the various ruling groups exploited and oppressed them, so the Miao people fled in large numbers. After several military operations in Shuixi area after the land reform, the situation in Nayong, which was "more Yi and less Han" and "more Miao and less Han" with a large number of Miao people and others, changed to "fewer Yi and more Han" and "fewer Miao and more Han" after "driving out the Miao and chasing the industry". The Miao people in Nayong settled down only because of the settlement of the Xiantong uprising. Therefore, nearly half of the Miao villages in Nayong now have a history of less than 200 years. The most distinctive clothing of the Nayong Miao people is women's clothing, which is mainly divided into embroidery and batik. The ready-made clothing is in the form of full embroidery and embroidery and batik. Among them, full embroidery is exquisitely handmade, with advanced skills, diverse techniques, exquisite and generous patterns, simple and gorgeous. The Nayong Miao clothing is a double-breasted top with a front lapel to the waist and a back draped to the calf, similar to a swallowtail coat. The bottom is a pleated skirt with flower stripes, the legs are wrapped with felt wool leggings, the feet are wearing upturned peach blossom shoes, and the head is wearing a special "V"-shaped wooden comb. The hair of the ancestors is 3 meters long and weighs 2 kilograms. The black high bun hairstyle looks elegant and luxurious. The Nayong Miao fully embroidered clothing is based on black fabrics, mainly with red, pink, blue, white and other silk embroidery, and the colors are harmonious and soft. There are various embroidery techniques, including yarn embroidery, paper-cut embroidery, weaving embroidery, batik embroidery, collage embroidery, yarn embroidery, rolling embroidery, and coil embroidery. The techniques include open picking (picking on the front and looking at the back) and dark picking (picking on the back and looking at the front). The patterns are simple, beautiful and meaningful, and the patterns are simple and complex, dense and sparse. A set of Miao costumes is a combination of spinning, weaving, dyeing, painting, picking, embroidery and sewing. The Miao people are a nation without traditional writing, and the Miao clothing is a living history book that records their own history. At the same time, the Miao people are a nation that often migrates, and the turbulent life makes it easy to lose their own history. Therefore, they use needles as pens and colored threads as ink to embroider thousands of years of suffering and migration on their dresses, forming a fossil-like epic. Nayong Miao clothing is made entirely of ramie grown by themselves, which is finally woven into cloth through planting, cutting, rubbing, beating, kneading, washing, spinning, weaving, dyeing and other channels, and then embroidered on the cloth. Clothes are made of dozens of rust pieces sewn together. All of them are mixed with the skillful skills of Miao women and their nostalgia for their ancestors and the place where their ancestors lived. Nayong Miao costumes belong to the natural inheritance of society. The exquisiteness of costumes and the exquisiteness of skills are all determined by personal factors. Among the women of Qing Miao, the representatives of exquisite handicrafts are: Yang Feng, female, Miao, born in May 1975, lives in the old village of Yakou Village, Baixing Town. Yang Xingxiu, female, Miao, born in July 1965, lives in the old village of Yakou Village, Baixing Town. Zhao Demei, female, Miao, born in 1966, lives in Pingzhai Village, Shuidong Township. Zhu Zhengying, female, Miao, born in 1969, lives in Laoweng Village, Zhangjiawan Town. Luo Shaoying, female, Miao, born in 1952. Lives in Buzuo Village, Zhangjiawan Town. Guo Zhengfei, female, Miao, born in 1977, lives in Buzuo Village, Zhangjiawan Town. The front of the Miao nationality's fully embroidered clothing is from the waist to the back, and the back is long and draped to the calf, forming a swallowtail-style double-breasted clothing. The patterns of Miao nationality's clothing include "Siheyuan Flower", "House Frame Flower", "Eight-petal Flower", etc. The integrated and blended patterns are the essence of the whole embroidery and the most valuable part for research. Such as: (dragon); (butterfly); (fork); (hook); (n); (bend); (e); (insect); (measuring tool); (rotor); (claw); (hook); (swastika); (sieve, cart, spinner, water insect); (river, river, water); (person) These embroidered characters have complete shapes, sounds and meanings; the front of the upper body extends to the waist, and the back is draped to the calves, forming a swallowtail-style double-breasted top; the lower body is a pleated long skirt with wavy stripes and batik bowls; the legs are wrapped with felt wool leggings; the feet are wearing peach blossom shoes with fishing toes and upward-curled nail shoes; the headdress is made of a wooden comb in the shape of a "V"-shaped ox horn, and the hair of the ancestors is twisted into a "V"-shaped high bun that is 3 meters long and weighs 2 kilograms; "髽首", "Chiyou's ears and temples are like swords and halberds, and he has horns on his head. He fought with Xuanyuan and touched people with his horns, and people could not resist" are the "ethnic emblem" symbols confirmed by the ethnology community of the Miao nationality. The "V"-shaped bun on the head of the Qing Miao people resembles a cow's horn, which is more like a "tribal emblem". The patterns of Nayong Miao costumes are complex and unique, and no one is the same. They are made of all-natural plants, with complex workmanship and simple patterns. The patterns are mostly symmetrical, cross-symmetrical, four-corner-symmetrical, and prismatic. There are also single patterns that exist independently. There are many techniques such as image and freehand. The patterns are closely related to their own lives, carrying information about ancient history and shadows of modern life. Like other branches of the Miao people, the costumes have the countryside and mountains where their ancestors lived. The skirts also have two obvious blank patterns representing the Yellow River and the Yangtze River and the countryside and mountains on both sides of the river. The diversity of patterns and the breadth of historical information have made clothing itself a culture. At the same time, the embroidery techniques of Nayong Miao costumes are diverse, all with black as the base, and the flower lines are blue, light red or orange-yellow with other colors. When embroidering, the outline is first drawn with a line, and then the needle is inserted every one or several yarns according to the pattern. Moreover, most of them are embroidered from the back. The patterns are mostly geometric when viewed from the front. They are often composed of several small flowers with different patterns. The outer cover is a diamond-shaped square. The warp and weft yarns of the cloth are crossed in the shape of "+" as the "coordinates", and the diagonal needles are inserted into the shape of "+", which is commonly known as "+" or "" shape, called flat embroidering. There are two types of embroidering skills: open embroidering and hidden embroidering. Open embroidering is embroidering from the front and viewed from the back, and hidden embroidering is embroidering from the back and viewed from the front. The two parallel long lines of embroidering must be added with a number of squares. The squares represent the fields where the ancestors originally lived, the lines in the squares represent fish, the patterns will represent snails and stars, and the curved strips represent forests. Some basic patterns include circles, semicircles, gourds, round hooks, round hook vine strings, S-shaped petals, swirls, small circles, trapezoids, etc. The finished patterns are sparse and dense, and the flower clusters are complex and simple, which complement each other and are elegant and beautiful. The Miao population in Nayongqing is less than 5,000, which is one twentieth of the total Miao population in Nayong. The population is very small, and coupled with the special geographical location and environment, the development is particularly slow. Nowadays, with the penetration of foreign advanced culture, the culture of the Qing Miao people has gradually been assimilated. The Qing Miao people have begun to unconsciously accept the influence of foreign culture from their closed primitive living habits, especially clothing, which has been hit the hardest. Because their own clothing always has many inconveniences in their working life, Han clothing has become the first choice, especially the younger generation, who basically refuse to wear their own ethnic clothing. In addition, this ethnic group has a very small population, and some things left by their ancestors, especially batik, embroidery and other crafts, are likely to be lost. Therefore, it is urgent to step up the rescue of this ethnic group's living customs and the rescue of embroidery, batik and other skills, especially the endangered embroidery craft, which needs to be rescued and protected. (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.) (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.)

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