Sansui Miao clothing
Sansui County is located in the eastern part of Southeast Guizhou. It borders Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County of Hunan Province to the east, Tianzhu and Jianhe counties to the southeast, and Zhenyuan County to the west and northeast. It is one of the eastern exits of Guizhou Province and an important channel for Hunan and Guangxi to enter Guizhou. It is known as the "main road to Eastern Guizhou" and the "gateway to Miaojiang". The county is located in the slope area where the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau transitions to the hills of western Hunan. Low mountains, hills, river valleys, and basins are intertwined, with beautiful mountains and rivers and a pleasant environment. According to the structure and style of clothing, the clothing of the Sansui Miao people can be divided into casual wear and formal wear. It is mainly distributed in Zhaitou, Tailie Town, Sansui County, Baye, Liangshang Township, etc. Although in the long historical process, the clothing of the Sansui Miao people has been more or less influenced by foreign cultures, it still follows its own traditional style well. Now the clothing of the Sansui Miao people, whether it is the style of clothing, the shape of patterns, the preference of colors, and the techniques of weaving, embroidery, and dyeing, are all in line with history. Specifically, the two different types of clothing of the Sansui Miao ethnic group are decorated with various embroidery and brocade, and are made of various colors of flowers, mountains and rivers, birds and animals. They have the legacy of the ancient "five-color clothing" and "flower clothing and bird patterns". Batik and plant-dyed floral cloth are the continuation of the "spotted cloth" tradition. Sansui Miao clothing is mainly divided into two types according to structure and style: casual wear and formal wear. Clothing production mainly includes weaving, indigo dyeing, tailoring, embroidery, brocade, silver jewelry making, inlay and decoration and other processes. Weaving, using cotton grown by oneself or bought from the market, spinning it into yarn, and then using a local loom to weave it into a one-foot wide white cloth as the fabric of clothing. Indigo dyeing, using the plant Polygonum indigo as the raw material, soaking it in a wooden barrel for six to nine days, adding an appropriate amount of lime water, and stirring it repeatedly, the indigo material after precipitation is ready. When indigo dyeing, dissolve the blue indigo slurry in the dye vat, add an appropriate amount of shochu, and put the white cloth into it for ten times to make a dark blue cloth. If you want blue and black with red, boil red water from red thorn roots and dye it once. If you want to make bright cloth, apply animal blood on the dyed base, dry it in the sun, and then apply cowhide glue. Tailors cut the cloth according to the style and specifications of the clothes to be sewn, and sew it into ordinary ready-made clothes by hand. Embroidery, Sansui Miao embroidery, with exquisite craftsmanship and many types, including crepe embroidery, braid embroidery, lock embroidery, horsetail embroidery, twist embroidery, broken silk embroidery, shrink treasure embroidery, flat embroidery, pasted embroidery, yarn count embroidery, mending embroidery, and stacked embroidery. Among them, double needle lock embroidery, crepe embroidery, braid embroidery, horsetail embroidery, silk quilting pasted embroidery and other techniques are local characteristics and are the basic techniques of Sansui Miao embroidery. Brocade: Brocade is divided into plain and colorful. The patterns are mainly geometric patterns, birds and animals, flowers, birds, insects, fish, etc., with strong color contrast and coordinated unity. Brocade is mainly used as straps, belts, etc. Silver jewelry is made of silver and is made into various shapes through more than 30 processes such as smelting, hammering, wire drawing, engraving, welding, washing, etc. The Miao clothing skills are mainly passed down through intergenerational inheritance within the family. In the past, Miao women began to learn the full set of craftsmanship of weaving, indigo making, dyeing, embroidery, brocade, tailoring, etc. for traditional clothing production at the age of seven or eight under the guidance of their grandmothers, mothers, sisters and other elders. By the age of fifteen or sixteen, they have basically mastered these skills and formed groups with their neighbors and sisters. They would gather together during the slack season and at night to exchange ideas and learn from each other to improve their skills. The traditional clothing making skills of the Miao nationality have been inherited and developed from generation to generation. Many clothing making experts have emerged in each village, such as Wan Asha from Zhaitou Miao Village. She started to learn embroidery from her mother at the age of seven, and could embroider at the age of seventeen or eighteen. She is particularly good at crepe embroidery. She uses eight-strand flower silk thread without drawing or painting, and embroiders dragons and phoenixes, flowers, birds, insects, fish, birds and beasts by hand feeling and consciousness. The images are lifelike and unique in style. She can make the color composition harmonious and vivid through the clever combination of the straightness, length, thickness, density and other lines, reflecting the unique interest and rich life atmosphere. Due to the accelerated pace of globalization and modernization, the impact of foreign cultures and the pursuit of modern civilization by the people of the ethnic group, the protection and inheritance of the Miao costumes of Sansui, like other ethnic folk cultures, are facing great challenges. In daily life, the ethnic costumes that people have always been proud of are rarely worn or not worn. Instead, they are replaced by popular ready-made clothes purchased from the market. This is particularly prominent among young people. Traditional clothing has only become formal attire worn by people at festivals, celebrations, religious ceremonies, funerals, weddings, and other ceremonies. At the same time, most of the fabrics, embroidery threads, and dyes are imported from other places. The utilization rate of locally produced fabrics and silk threads has greatly decreased, and even gradually disappeared. The traditional activities of cotton planting, mulberry planting and silkworm breeding, spinning, silk, weaving, dye planting, indigo making, and cloth dyeing have decreased. In particular, the skills of "double needle lock embroidery", "brocade", and "silk wadding embroidery" that are crucial to the formation of the Sansui Miao style, the generation with exquisite craftsmanship is gradually aging, and the new generation is completely unfamiliar with the craftsmanship, and there is no successor. (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.) (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.)