Zhang satin originated from Zhang velvet in the Yuan Dynasty. Zhang velvet was developed on the basis of the sheared velvet of "Silk Cotton" in the Yuan Dynasty, and was named because it originated in Zhangzhou. Zhang satin was first created in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, flourished in the Qing Dynasty, and was first woven by Suzhou Weaving Bureau. Zhang satin was highly praised by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty and prospered. As a result, the number of weaving households of Zhang satin increased year by year, and production and sales were stable for a long time. The Daoguang period was the heyday of Zhang satin production. Most of the long robes and jackets of the royal family and civil and military officials in the palace were made of Zhang satin, which became the main silk for clothing. On the eve of the Anti-Japanese War in 1937, Suzhou still had 650 velvet machines for producing Zhang satin and Zhang velvet, with an annual output of 180,000 yards and 350 employees. On October 18, 1947, the Zhang Velvet Industry Association was established in Tongfang Lane, Linton Road, Suzhou. When Suzhou was liberated in 1949, there were still 170 households in the Zhang Velvet industry. Zhang satin was identified as one of the excellent products. In 1956, fifteen Zhangrong workshops including Xiehe, Yinrongji, Pingji, and Yufengyong merged to form the public-private joint venture Xinguang Zhangrong Factory. In 1958, Dongfeng Silk Weaving Factory was established. Songjin Zhangduan Factory was renamed Songjin Fabric Factory in 1959, and then renamed Suzhou Brocade Factory in 1978. In October 1979, in order to save the silk weaving craftsmanship of Zhangrong and Zhangduan that was about to be lost, the "Suzhou Zhangrong Silk Weaving Factory" was established. After the 1980s, the Zhang satin industry gradually declined. In the early 1990s, Suzhou Brocade Factory and Xinguang Silk Weaving Factory, which produced Zhang satin, were closed one after another. After that, the masters of Suzhou Zhang satin went to Danyang, Hai'an and other places to teach their skills. Zhang satin is a pure silk color-woven jacquard velvet fabric with satin as the ground and velvet warp as the flower. It is interwoven with two groups of warp threads and four groups of weft threads. The manifestation of Zhangduan weaving skills is mainly loom assembly skills and weaving skills: loom assembly skills are different from ordinary bundled jacquard machines, and have certain particularity and complexity, which is mainly reflected in the warp feeding device and the heddle drawing device of the velvet warp; Zhangduan weaving skills need to be operated by two craftsmen at the same time, one on the loom and the other under the loom to cooperate with each other. The structure of the jacquard part is controlled by the flower puller to control the flower heddle, and the structure of the fabric ground part is controlled by the weaver's foot to control the rise and fall of each piece of plain heddle. The whole process of Zhangduan products needs to be completed by manual operation, and it still cannot be replaced by machinery. Zhangduan fabrics are dense and bright, the velvet flowers are full and meticulous, the texture is thick and strong, and the pattern has a strong three-dimensional sense. The pattern of Zhangduan is determined according to the characteristics of the fabric velvet flowers. Its pattern is simple and generous, the pattern outline is clear, the lines are smooth, and it is a combination of large and small blocks and rough lines, and arranged in a clear and full manner. The themes of the patterns are mostly round flowers, round dragons, round phoenixes, geometric patterns, tortoise shells, eight immortals, eight treasures, eight auspicious patterns, etc. There are also scattered flower patterns on a clear ground, which have a strong oriental ethnic style. In terms of color application, the ground warp and weft are mostly the same color or different color from the wool thread, showing two-color Zhang satin. There are also velvet ground warp and weft of the same color, which is the same color Zhang satin. If the velvet warp is arranged in a colored warp, it forms a colorful Zhang satin. In ancient times, Zhang satin was mainly used by the nobility for clothing fabrics and interior decoration, such as robe materials, saddles, decorative materials, etc. Modern Zhang satin is used as high-end dresses, evening wear, and women's art handbags, wallets, cosmetic bags, etc. It is also widely used in high-end cushions, seat cushions and bed decoration accessories. (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.) (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.)