Among the colorful and numerous Chinese food, it is not an exaggeration to say that dumplings are the pride of the food world. Whether it is a grand banquet to entertain distinguished guests or a table for ordinary people in their daily life, it is highly respected and steals the show. In the food customs of Heyang people, dumplings are also undisputedly a favorite. Dumplings are called "boiled corners" or "water dumplings" in the spoken language of Heyang people; if they are stuffed with pork or mutton, they are called "lumps". The simplest shape of Heyang dumplings is a round dough sheet with stuffing placed on it, folded in half, and the edges are pinched tightly to form a half-moon shape; some people pinch the edges of the dumplings into lace when entertaining new sons-in-law or important guests, which adds a bit of beauty; the "lumps" filled with meat are pinched and then squeezed from both sides to the middle to form a shallow groove, with both sides raised, which is also very beautiful. There is also a variation of dumplings. The dough is not rolled out in a round shape, but rolled out like noodles, then folded into several layers and cut into rectangles. Each piece is folded in half, three sides are pinched tightly, and two corners are slightly brought in, like the flint used for fire in the old rural areas, commonly known as "flint slices". The characteristic of this "dumpling" is that it is quick and convenient to wrap. It is mostly used for eating by oneself or when guests are in a hurry. The content is the same as dumplings, but the appearance is different. The fillings of Heyang dumplings are mainly divided into vegetable fillings and meat fillings. The vegetable fillings include red and white radish vermicelli, leek vermicelli, tofu vermicelli, cabbage vermicelli, etc. In spring, there are ground vegetables (shepherd's purse, oil spoon, etc.) as fillings. They are delicious, green and verdant, and have an unusual taste. They are deeply loved by guests. Even city dwellers who know about it specifically ask for this kind of ground vegetable dumplings when they go to the countryside to experience a kind of field flavor. The meat filling is made of big meat and mutton, and there are also beef. Heyang is an agricultural county. Rural people used to be poor, and only wealthy families could eat dumplings stuffed with meat. Therefore, when people asked what kind of stuffing was used for dumplings, the people being asked often answered humorously: "Mutton smells bad, beef is tough (not easy to bite off), I want to eat pork but I don't have money", to explain that they were eating dumplings stuffed with vegetables. In the mountainous areas where walnuts are abundant, such as Panjiashan, which borders Huanglong, there is also a kind of "walnut dumplings" stuffed with walnut kernels. When a rare guest comes to visit, the host takes out tobacco and tea, and then is busy beating walnuts for stuffing. Put the walnut kernels in an iron pot for a little "kang", rub them with your hands, and then use a dustpan to winnow most of the outer skin to remove the astringency. Then use a rolling pin to roll it into a fine sand-like shape, mix it with chopped green onions or chives, and the walnut dumpling stuffing is ready. Compared with meat and vegetable stuffing, this kind of "walnut dumplings" naturally tastes very different, reflecting the simplicity, sincerity, enthusiasm and hospitality of the mountain people. But experienced people know that even if the host repeatedly asks for more rice, walnut dumplings should not be eaten too much. People with poor stomachs find it difficult to digest and prone to diarrhea, which brings troubles. It is better to eat less and chew slowly when eating. One way to make Heyang dumpling skins is to first roll them into thick strips, then chop them into small pieces, and then roll them with a small rolling pin; the other way is to put the small dough pieces in the palm of the left hand without using a small rolling pin, and pinch them into a pancake shape with the right hand. Skilled people use this method no slower than rolling with a small rolling pin, and the dough is not squeezed by the rolling pin, so the dumplings are soft and delicious, and are mostly used when making "mutton lumps". Another way is to roll them into a large "ji" (Heyang dialect, a unit of measure, the same as "zhang"), then choose a bowl of suitable size and turn it upside down, and use the edge of the bowl to "cut" one dumpling skin after another, and re-knead and roll the dough pieces that are not in shape and cannot be used. There are three ways to eat Heyang dumplings: soup, steamed in a cage, and fried. Steamed dumplings are made in larger quantities each time and eaten in several meals. In winter, when people gather around the fire, they are placed on the stove and slowly baked. When the surface turns yellow and is cooked, they are eaten while chatting. It is quite enjoyable. Fried dumplings are generally larger in size and are mostly stuffed with leeks. After being fried, they are fragrant and appetizing. The most common way is to cook them in soup. They can be eaten with spicy garlic water, or with spicy garlic water, sprinkled with a pinch of leek flowers, and add sesame oil, dried shrimps, and MSG. This is called "sour soup dumplings." Some people do not dip them in garlic water or sour soup, but eat them dry. They say that this allows them to taste the filling better, which is quite unique. Some people do not serve with sour soup, but with sauerkraut (of course, there are differences between meat and vegetable sauerkraut); some people are more creative and cook dumplings directly in vegetable soup, which is called "dumplings in a pot". It is warm to eat in winter, and with the power of chili, people sweat and feel comfortable. Farmers rarely eat dumplings throughout the year, so every time they eat dumplings, the elderly smile and the children cheer. In the "Huahua" (Heyang calls folk songs "Huahua") that reflect folk life, dumplings are mentioned in many places. In the "Huahua" of "Look at the Busy Time", when talking about the meal that the mother-in-law entertained her son-in-law, there are words like "eggs and meat, two and a half pots of liquor, boiled dumplings, two kinds of rice, and fried buns dipped in garlic in the afternoon". Because dumplings are the best food in the minds of the people in Heyang, there are jokes like "Balloon Skin" in folk literature. It is said that a "Jia Wa" from Heyang who had never been out of the house went to Xi'an to visit his brother, and his brother bought dumplings for him. The brother ate comfortably and asked after leaving the store: "What are you eating?" His brother was afraid of being embarrassed, so he stopped him and said: "Go to the ball" ("go" is pronounced qi in Heyang dialect). The brother always thought the dumplings were delicious, and the next day, he went to the restaurant again. When people asked him what he wanted to eat, he said: "Go to the ball" The people in the store didn't understand what he said, but they didn't want to let this buyer go. Seeing that he was a countryman and knowing that countrymen love to eat noodles, they made a bowl of wide noodles and poured some vegetables for him to eat. After eating, people asked him how it tasted, and he said: "You are bullying the countrymen! My brother came and asked me to eat balloons, and my brother didn't come and asked me to eat some balloon skins!" Although it is a joke, it can be seen that dumplings have a place in the hearts of Heyang people. Because of this, when Heyang people show respect to guests, the highest level of "fine rice" is making dumplings. In rural areas, it is common to see such a phenomenon. When someone asks the housewife who is seeing off the guests: "What food do you serve to the guests?" The woman will answer with a very proud tone: "Boiled dumplings!" During the Spring Festival, most families prepare a large pot of dumpling stuffing for later use, and then make dumplings when the guests come, which is very convenient. On the Lunar New Year's Eve, many villages in Dongxiang, Heyang are accustomed to eating steamed dumplings at noon. In addition to the general shape, there is also a large dumpling with two sharp corners bent together to form a round shape with a high back and a low front. It is called "won (won) food", which means "whole", and is a deformed dumpling. The most common custom is to make dumplings on New Year's Eve. The children who work and go to school outside have all returned, and the family gathers together warmly. Some knead the dough, some roll the dough, some make dumplings, and some run errands. While making dumplings, they chat about family matters, talk about the achievements of the year, and talk about the plans for the coming year. It is truly a family happiness everywhere, and the whole family welcomes the New Year. At midnight, impatient people lit up the firecrackers to welcome the spring, children lit the cypress fire in the yard, and wives started making dumplings. At midnight, dumplings are made, dumplings are eaten. Dumplings, this small food, this elf made of white flour, contains so many beautiful hopes and good wishes! Nowadays, televisions have become popular in rural areas. Modern science and technology have closely connected the remote Heyang County with the capital Beijing and the rest of the world. People make dumplings while enjoying the wonderful Spring Festival Gala. When the New Year's bell rings, people gather the fire, eat dumplings, chat and laugh, or take a short nap after eating dumplings, and then prepare to put on new clothes and greet the new year. Dumplings are eaten for breakfast as usual on the first day of the New Year. According to the rural custom of "Gods Three and Ghosts Four", four bowls of cooked dumplings are first scooped out and respectfully placed in front of the ancestral tablet (or portrait), and the family kowtows to let the ancestors share the joy of the New Year with them. Then the family gathers around the dining table to eat dumplings. When making dumplings the previous night, a copper coin (now a coin) has been put into one of the dumplings. Now it depends on who can eat this "big money dumpling". He will be the most blessed person in the family in the new year. The fifth day of the first lunar month is the "Send Away the Poor Festival". In addition to beating gongs and drums to suppress the poor ghosts, sweeping the dirty soil in the yard from the inside to the outside, and then dumping it far away, a very important content is that dumplings must be made at noon, which is called "filling the hole of poverty". Dumplings can be steamed or boiled, as you like, but not making them is a must, because in the past, farmers were afraid of poverty and always felt that there were some "holes" that gave off "poor spirits". They hoped to pinch these holes tightly so that the poor spirits would not come out again and live a stable and prosperous life. In Heyang, the people call "making dumplings" "pinching dumplings". The "pinching" in "pinching dumplings" coincides with the "pinching" in "pinching poor holes", which creates a symbolic meaning. Therefore, pinching dumplings has become an indispensable folk activity for the "Sending Away Poverty Festival". At noon on this day, every household will pinch dumplings with meat or vegetable fillings. After steaming or boiling them, they will first scoop a bowl and offer it in front of the ancestral spirits, and then the whole family will sit around and eat a bowl of dumplings for each person. It seems that in this way, the poor holes have been pinched tightly, and the days of prosperity are just around the corner. Everyone is filled with joy while enjoying the beauty of food. The most grand and abundant banquet for Heyang people to entertain guests is the banquet for the new guests who send off the bride when they marry. According to the procedure, the first is wine and food. The cold dishes on the table are divided into "nine vessels", "thirteen flowers", and "sixteen surrounds". There are nine, eleven, and thirteen hot dishes. Some people add a tea ceremony before the wine and food, so that the guests can taste tea and eat cakes. After the wine and food, there are meals, ten bowls of dishes, hot and cold, meat and vegetarian, and some red and white round steamed buns (small steamed buns); the next is noodles and rice, because it needs to be poured with sauce, it is also called "water rice". Generally, wontons are served first, and then fine noodles, but in Heichi and Majiazhuang areas of Dongnan Township, there are six or seven dishes of water rice, and even as many as nine dishes, including fine noodles, mandarin duck noodles (green and white), green noodles, wontons, etc., and dumplings are naturally also selected. This kind of dumplings is only the size of a thumb nail, but it is still carefully pinched into lace, and the skills of rural women with skillful hands are fully demonstrated here. When the guests saw the appearance, they were surprised at first, and then they felt satisfied after being respected. When they carefully bit into it, the filling was even more delicious. After eating a lot of fish and meat, they were a little greasy. Now it was really comfortable to eat some light rice. Dumplings played a new role here, playing a role in increasing the festive atmosphere. Dumplings in Heyang are as ordinary as the people of Heyang. In terms of variety, it can't compare with the "dumpling banquet" in the ancient city of Xi'an; in terms of the materials used to mix the filling, it is not precious. But because it is closely associated with folk activities, its position in the hearts of Heyang people will never be shaken.