Pingbian Miao costumes

Yunnan
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Pingbian Miao people claim to have five branches. They are "Qingmiao", "Hua Miao", "Hei Miao", "Bai Miao" and "Lv Miao". With the development and progress of society, the clothing of Pingbian Miao women has changed a lot, and the original old-style clothing has basically disappeared. The upper garments imitated the "Hua Miao" sewing and have not changed much, while the lower garments imitated the "Qingmiao" sewing. Most of them have been changed to machine-woven machine-rolled pleated skirts with different patterns and styles. What did not exist in the past has now been innovated, such as inlaying glass beads and plastic beads, and the feet have changed to cloth shoes, rubber shoes, leather shoes, etc. produced by the state. But each branch is different. The clothing of "Qingmiao" women is beautiful, generous and good-looking. In the past, the upper body wore a blue or blue full-collared top, a double-layer left outer and right inner cross-collared top without lace, and a triangular collar with a face piece like a tax corner directly under the collar, with a moderate waist and sleeve diameter. The lower body is a batik colored linen open-wrinkled skirt. The size is determined by the person. It is usually made of 56 meters of cloth, 100-120 cm long, 70-80 cm wide at the top and 400-500 cm wide at the bottom. It is divided into three parts. The main features are: (1) it must be batik; (2) it must have a hand-embroidered flower edge that is more than 5 inches wide; (3) it must be inlaid with three different colors or patterns. The waist is narrow and long. It is about 30 cm wide and extends from the waist to the arch of the foot. It is decorated with various colors of lace. There is a streamer about 3 inches wide and dyed with blue and white or purple and white three-section petals on the back waist. There is a small waistband of 30-30 cm on the upper end of the streamer, which makes the waist look new and beautiful and eye-catching. The calves are wrapped with flowered leggings. The feet wear embroidered hook-point shoes. The clothing and accessories of "Hua Miao" and "Hei Miao" women are exquisite and beautiful. In the past, the upper body was dressed in a cyan or blue full-lapeled shirt, which was long and wide above the waist, with large and short sleeves and no collar. They called themselves "Dahan's coat". They wore a shirt with a slanting collar and rolled edges from left to right inside, with narrow and long sleeves, and a "half-moon" embroidered pattern on the shoulder pads. There was lace on the chest, and a pair of buttons tied with thick cloth strips were nailed in front of the neck, on the right collar, and under the right armpit. The lower body was dressed in a flowery white or wax-dyed linen open-wrinkled skirt. The size varied from person to person, but was generally similar to or equal to that of the "Qingmiao" and weighed about 1.5 kilograms. It could swing when walking while wearing it, and was not easily blown away by the wind or pierced by thorns. There was a dark-colored apron with various laces in front of the waist, which covered the upper and lower skirt openings tightly. There are also ribbons of varying widths tied around the back of the waist, two of which reach the bottom of the skirt. The waistband and the ribbons connect the dress together. The top is tight, making the woman look plump. When walking, the skirt swings, making her look thin, slender, and well-proportioned. Like the "Qingmiao", the calves are wrapped with flowered leggings and the feet wear embroidered hook-point shoes. The clothing and accessories of the "Bai Miao" women used to wear a blue or white left-outer-right-inner cross-collared top with a small collar. Behind the neck is a piece of embroidered shoulder strap about 15-15 cm long, with patterns of flowers, grass, birds, and animals embroidered on the shoulder. The sleeves are decorated with flowered cloth or embroidery to form three compartments. The lower body is a pure white linen wrinkled skirt. The top looks new and eye-catching, while the bottom is pure white and elegant. The size of the skirt of the "Bai Miao" women is determined by the individual. The upper and lower skirt hems are generally the same as those of the "Qingmiao". Its main characteristics are: (1) it must be pure white; (2) the skirt is long; and (3) it is free of foreign matter. The Bai Miao have a narrow waistband that reaches the knees in front of their waists, a dyed ribbon in the back, white footcloth wrapped around their calves, and the footwear is the same as that of the Qing Miao. The clothing of the "Green Miao" women is beautiful and elegant. In the past, most of them wore green or blue tops, and white wrinkled skirts or batik skirts. The tops are the same as those of the "Hua Miao", and the bottoms are similar to those of the "Qing Miao". The difference lies in the waistband. The "Green Miao" wears a dark and wide waistband that matches the skirt in front and back, covering more than half of the skirt. After the waistbands are tied tightly, the clothes and skirts are connected as one, and the upper and lower parts are tightly stretched, so that the skirt is not easily disturbed by the wind, and it looks dignified and elegant. The belts worn on the legs and feet are similar to those of the "Hua Miao" and "Qing Miao". The clothing of Pingbian Miao men, regardless of which branch, is similar. Before the 1930s, most Miao men wore a linen slanting-collared long gown on the upper body, and a double-breasted shirt inside, with narrow and long sleeves. After 1950, people began to wear linen shirts with small collars and wide sleeves, in pure blue, blue or white, with long stripes of fine checkered flowers. Except in summer, people generally like to wear more. The buttons on their clothes are usually made of 7 pairs of cloth strips or thick threads, which are fastened from bottom to top. One pair is buttoned at the bottom of the outer garment, and one pair is added to each inner garment. The opening and closing of the buttons on the clothes are used to show the level of people, to show the rich and the poor. They wear wide waisted and wide crotch trousers with short and wide trouser legs, and wrap their calves with leggings. Most of them are barefoot or wear straw sandals or bamboo shoes. Now this has changed. Most people wear plastic shoes, rubber shoes or leather shoes produced by the state. Pingbian Miao slings, veils and swaddling clothes: (1) Slings: Miao slings are made more exquisitely, and are usually made by the mother's family (parents-in-law). After a girl gets married, if the mother's family finds that the daughter is pregnant, they will make a sling for her to use during the "month of confinement" (delivery). Miao sling production: 70 cm long, 60 cm wide, double-layer fabric, the surface is inlaid fabric, the inner layer is mostly black or blue fabric. (2) Hijab waist: Miao women mainly use it to cover the child's head when carrying a child to protect it from wind and cold. Its production is almost the same as the sling, but the difference is that it is made by the pregnant woman to show that she is pregnant. The hijab waist is 60 cm long, 50 cm wide, single-layer fabric, except for the 20-80 cm waist center on the surface, the rest is surrounded by embroidery or lace. (3) Swaddling clothes: Generally sewn by the man's mother to show her concern for her daughter-in-law's "pregnancy" and to bless the healthy growth of children and grandchildren. It is mostly made of soft old fabrics. Most of them are double-layered fabrics, patched together from multiple pieces of fabric, and are generally 70 cm square to show that the children and grandchildren are neat and tidy. When wrapping a baby, use a prismatic colored bag, with the head and feet facing diagonally, and the left and right hands facing diagonally. Fold the upper corner down to cover the baby's head, cross the left and right sides and fold them back into the inner bag, fold the lower corner up to wrap the baby's feet, wrap them tightly and press them on the left and right corners to keep the baby warm, comfortable and sleep sweetly.

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