Liuzhi Miao costumes

Guizhou
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From ancient times to modern times, the Miao people have experienced several large-scale migrations, and in the process formed a special national culture. The most distinctive and specific manifestation of Miao culture is its colorful national costumes, among which the costumes of Miao women are the most representative. Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture is located in the western part of Hunan Province, bordering the four provinces and cities of Hunan, Hubei, Chongqing and Guizhou. The Xiangxi Miao people include more than 20 branches, mainly "Red Miao", and each branch includes several sub-branches, which makes the costumes of the Xiangxi Miao people appear particularly diverse, and eventually formed the basic characteristics of one type (Xiangxi type) and three styles (Huabao style, Phoenix style, Jilu style). The costumes of the Xiangxi Miao people include headscarves, shawls, tops, waists, belts, flower belts, pants, skirts, leggings, socks, shoes, etc. These costumes are decorated with hundreds of fantasy and profound patterns such as geometric patterns, animal patterns, and plant patterns. The costumes of the Miao nationality in western Hunan are made with a set of traditional techniques such as weaving, printing and dyeing, embroidery, brocade, cross-stitching, yarn counting, wax-dyeing, and tie-dyeing. Each technique has a unique production process and processing method. The Miao people living in the high-altitude mountainous areas in the south of Tongzi County, Guizhou Province, in order to resist the severe winter climate, mostly use double-breasted tops, and wear batik pleated skirts and cross-stitch aprons underneath, with cross-stitch sleeves on the sleeves and multiple layers of cross-stitch leggings on the calves. Miao women believe that the colors existing in nature are the materials for their choices in life, and these colors should be worn on the body to form a beauty that originates from nature but transcends nature. There are four common types of Miao costumes in Xixiu District, Anshun County, Guizhou Province: one is that women wear a half-moon-shaped mahogany comb on their heads, their hair is wrapped in a bun on the wooden comb, and a silver chain is wrapped around the outside. The two lapels of the top are crossed and matched, and the lower body wears a long skirt, tied around the waist with a hemp belt or brocade belt, and the apron is mostly bordered with batik or embroidery; the second is that women tie their hair into a bun, The blue batik-edged cloth is folded into a pointed top. The clothing is mostly indigo-colored, decorated with colorful lace. There are two white laces on the lapels. During festivals, the laces are replaced with bright colored edges. Various flower and bird patterns are made on them by embroidery and dyeing. The lower body is a pleated skirt that is longer than the knee and decorated with lace at the hem. The calves are wrapped with blue cloth belts. Third, women use a bamboo piece tied with a small wooden comb to insert it diagonally into the bun, and then wrap the remaining long hair and wigs around the wooden comb. The clothes are The clothing is a short shirt with a slanting front opening, usually in cyan, blue or dark blue, with lace on the cuffs and collar. On festive occasions or other festivals, they wear colorful clothes, mostly red, with a skirt that reaches the heels, cyan and blue or cyan and white, with a brocade waist and a white apron. Fourth, women wear a bun, with batik cloth as an arch bridge-shaped exterior decoration, a silver hairpin on the forehead, a short shirt with a slanting front opening on the upper body, and a cyan or blue and white batik pleated skirt on the lower body, with a flower belt apron around the waist. The costumes of the Miao people in Guanling, Anshun are more representative costumes of the Miao people who speak Sichuan, Guizhou and Yunnan dialects. They are mainly concentrated in the Miao settlements such as Dingyun, Guansuo and Huajiang in Guanling County, Guizhou Province, and are also circulated in Qinglong, Xingren, Anlong and Zhenning counties around Guanling. Guanling Miao costumes are divided into two parts: skirts and headdresses. In the skirts, the three embroidery patterns of different sizes and patterns on the collar, waistcoat and sleeves of the top symbolize the Yellow River, Yangtze River and Yuan River, the hometowns of the Miao people. The different geometric figures inside represent the crisscrossing fields in the three major river basins. The large pattern in the center of the skirt symbolizes the Miao compatriots who are connected in heart and hand. The large rectangular colorful embroidery patterns on the front and back of the top represent the sun, stars, flowers, etc. The three vertical "Chuan"-shaped embroidery patterns on the waist represent the three major dialects of the Miao language. The headdresses of the Miao people in Anshun are quite particular. Married women comb their hair from the temples into a bun and twist it into a cylindrical shape, then coil it from left to right above the right ear, and then insert a red and green horn-shaped wooden comb; the headdresses of unmarried girls are to comb their hair from the forehead to the front, and then use the hairline made of broken hair to braid it together with the hair into a braid, which is coiled from left to right on the head, leaving the braid tail in a beard-like shape hanging above the right ear. The costumes of the Miao people in Nayongqing, Guizhou are the most well-preserved among all the Miao branches. Their headdresses are inserted into a high bun that is coiled in a "V" shape and shaped like horns. It is said that "Chiyou's ears are like swords and halberds, and his head has horns. He fought with Xuanyuan and touched people with his horns, and people could not move forward." The headdresses of the Miao people in Nayongqing have "tribal emblems" such as "hairpins" and "antennae". It is particularly worth mentioning that the Nayong full embroidery costumes have exquisite craftsmanship and simple production processes, which can be regarded as the best among the Miao costumes. Due to the different cultural backgrounds, living environments and intermarriage ranges of different branches of the Miao nationality, different clothing cultural circles have been formed. The Miao costumes of Jianhe, Guizhou are one of them. It is distributed in ten towns within the county, with twelve categories and nearly a hundred styles. There are more than twenty kinds of embroidery alone, and the needlework techniques are diverse. The patterns of the Miao costumes in Jianhe are colorful, simple and mysterious, with a unique layout, full and rigorous composition, clear primary and secondary images, and strong contrast in color decoration. It has unique aesthetic value and distinctive national style. The Miao costumes in Taijiang, Guizhou are famous at home and abroad for their rich content, diverse forms, simple and mysterious shapes, and bold and ingenious color matching. According to the local dialect of the Miao nationality, its types include nine categories: Fangni type, Fangjiu type, Fangbai type, Fangxiu type, Fangnan type, Fangweng type, Fangli type, Baxiang type, and Wengmang type, with a total of more than a hundred styles. The embroidery needlework of the Miao costumes in Taijiang is diverse, mainly including more than twenty kinds of flat embroidery, brocade embroidery, broken line embroidery, braid embroidery, and pan embroidery. Its composition has symmetrical, left-right, and center styles. It reflects the characteristics of variation and exaggeration in art. It is ideological, with clear priorities. A composition is a story, and historians call it "a history book worn on the body". Baibei Miao costume "Hundred Birds Feather Skirt" is unique and is the most representative of Miao costumes in Rongjiang County, Guizhou. The pattern of its dress is mainly based on the shape of hundreds of birds, with dragons and phoenixes interspersed, reflecting the worship of bird totems by this branch of the Miao ethnic group. The lapels, sleeves, waist skirts, hems and other directions are covered with other patterns, mainly fish, shrimps, stone clams, spiders, snakes, chains, flowers, trees, mountains and rivers. The production of clothing requires multiple processes such as rolling, rolling, kneading, and pounding. In this process, batik, weaving, embroidery and other techniques are used alternately. The whole production is delicate and creative, showing a certain ethnic regionality. The color expression of Suojiaqing Miao clothing is very prominent. Both colored batik and cross-stitch embroidery, which are mainly made by handcraft, use natural raw materials. The colored clothing of Suojiaqing Miao (mainly women's clothing) preserves many ancient cultural customs information. The unique patterns, lines and various ideographic and symbolic symbols have become an important part of the Qing Miao culture. Danzhai County, Guizhou Province is located in the slope area on the southern edge of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau. The multi-ethnic mountainous area here is mainly composed of the Miao Ganao branch. The relatively independent geographical environment has enabled the Miao people living and working here to form their own unique clothing culture. Comparing the ancient clothing that can be collected now, it is found that the differences in the ancient costumes of the seven sub-ethnic groups are very small. Among them, the "elegant gray type" bird clothing is the most original. After development, the differences in the costumes of each sub-ethnic group are increasing, but there is still one thing in common, that is, to do their best to use embroidery or batik techniques to show the bird totem worshipped by the Miao Ganao branch, and to express the bird pattern vividly. The extreme worship of birds has created the artistic charm of the costumes of the Ganao branch of the Miao ethnic group. Costumes such as "Hundred Birds Clothes", "Golden Pheasant Clothes", and "Batik Ancient Costumes" embody the ethnic consciousness of bird worship and have become an important cultural symbol of the Ganao branch. (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.) (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.)

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