Traditional brewing techniques of Zhanggong wine

Henan
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Zhanggong wine has a long history of brewing. In a village about 30 miles southwest of the city of Gebo State (now Ningling County) in the Shang Dynasty, there was a warrior named Zhang Gong, who was loyal, brave and chivalrous. When there was a war, he took the initiative to guard the border. The newly married wife at home was loyal and virtuous. Because she missed her husband, she served a bowl of wine every time she had a meal and placed it on the table to show her love. After a while, she couldn't bear to abandon it, so she placed it in a jar. After a long time, a large jar was accumulated. Zhang Gong won the battle against the enemy and returned home. The couple reunited. His wife told him about the pain of separation and lovesickness. Zhang Gong looked at the food in the jar and was touched by his wife's kindness. He tried the food in the jar. His wife cooked in the kitchen, and the water in the cage flowed, exuding a rich aroma. Zhang Gong tasted it and found it sweet, refreshing, mellow and delicious. The neighbors were able to taste it and all called it a good thing. Later, they followed the same method. Local officials presented rare tributes to the King of Shang. The King of Shang named it "Zhanggong Wine" and the village "Zhanggong Village". At the end of the Western Han Dynasty, Wang Mang usurped power, changed the Han Dynasty to the Xin Dynasty, and wanted to exterminate the Han Dynasty. Liu Xiu, the seventh-generation grandson of Emperor Gaozu, was hunted down by Wang Mang and fled to Zhanggong Town. He hid under the "Two Cypresses and One Hole" bridge in the north of Zhanggong Town. After Liu Xiu escaped, he bought Zhanggong wine to express his gratitude and wrote a poem after drinking: "The fragrance is far away with the wind, and the wine fairy is in the town; the fine wine relieves worries and fills my chest with ambitions." After drinking, Liu Xiu rode his horse east for 30 miles to Luohu Bridge. The wine was strong and the fragrance was full of mouth. He couldn't help but rein in his horse and look back at Zhanggong Town. He praised the good wine and chanted a poem in high spirits: "Rein in the horse and look back at Zhanggong, and thank the wine fairy for sending me off. It's like a dream of flying clouds for 30 miles, and the strong aroma of wine rushes in waves." After Liu Xiu became emperor, he named Zhanggong wine as the imperial wine of the palace. The small bridge where he hid and escaped was named "Wolong Bridge", and "Lema Town" was built where he reined in his horse and turned back. Zhanggong wine has become more famous since then and has been passed down to this day. From the pottery fragments and wine vessels unearthed from the Dinggudui site in Ningling, it can be seen that the history of Zhanggong winemaking can be traced back to the Longshan culture period 4,000 years ago. After the changes of the Han, Ming and Qing dynasties, Zhanggong winemaking gradually evolved from the past turbid mash (fermented wine) to shaojiu (distilled wine). In the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, Zhanggong's winemaking industry gradually declined. On the eve of liberation, there were more than 30 winemaking workshops in the county, mainly concentrated around Zhanggong Town. After the founding of New China, the Ningling County People's Government established the local state-owned Ningling County Zhanggong Winery in 1957 on the basis of Caojia Zaofang and Zhangjia Wine Shop in Zhanggong Town, and still retained the traditional Zhanggong wine brewing process. Ningling County has been rich in crops suitable for winemaking since ancient times, such as millet, sorghum, and Shu sorghum. Zhanggong Town (formerly known as Zhanggongji) has been both an amphibious wharf and a famous cargo distribution center in eastern Henan since ancient times. The Zhanggong wine brewing area is mainly distributed within 50 kilometers around Zhanggong Town, Ningling County. It is located in the eastern Henan Plain and has a typical temperate monsoon climate. It has unique winemaking resources and conditions. In 1974, Zhanggong Winery used low-temperature freezing technology to successfully develop 38-degree Zhanggong wine, which caused a sensation in the entire Chinese liquor industry, and various manufacturers followed suit. In 1989, in the national liquor evaluation, more than 10 low-alcohol liquors of Zhanggong were rated as national excellent products. At the beginning of this century, Ningling County organized scholars to collect various versions, academic papers and related materials of the published "Zhanggong Wine Brewing Method" and published a set of "Zhanggong Wine Culture Series". In 2007, Zhanggong Winery and China Brewing Industry Association jointly sponsored the "China Low-alcohol Liquor Summit Forum" in the hometown of Zhanggong Wine, and scholars at home and abroad jointly discussed the brewing skills of Zhanggong wine. "East, West, South, North and Central, Good Wine is in Zhanggong" was performed by crosstalk masters and resounded throughout the country. "Zhang, Bao, Lin" have always been the representatives of famous wines in the Central Plains, and Zhanggong wine ranks first. Due to differences in climate, craftsmanship, materials, etc., the strong aroma flavor of Zhanggong wine is qualitatively different from other strong aroma liquors. Process characteristics: The traditional Zhanggong wine brewing process has nearly 100 processes from raw material processing to finished wine, all of which are completed manually. Manual koji making drag board koji (adding lees to the raw materials); original cellar method; double wheel bottom in rows; mixed use of medium and high temperature koji; quantity and quality cutting of wine; storage of wine in round wooden barrels or square wooden boxes. For a long time, the brewing skills of Zhanggong wine have been passed down from generation to generation by father to son, master to apprentice, oral instruction and hand performance. Water quality characteristics: The origin of Zhanggong wine-Zhanggong Town, Ningling County, Henan Province, is located in the eastern Henan Plain, belonging to the Huanghuai River Basin and the Huaihe River system. It has good environmental protection and natural ecology, and there is no pollution source within a radius of 100 miles. The groundwater resources are abundant, the water quality is sweet and clear, and it is suitable for winemaking. Raw material characteristics: Zhanggong wine is made from very fine grains, with local Shu sorghum (kaoliang) and winter wheat as the main raw materials. Because the raw materials (kaoliang) used contain a certain amount of tannins, aromatic phenols and vanillin, they are added to the medium and high temperature Daqu made from pure wheat, and then fermented and distilled into the wine, giving the wine a special grain and wine aroma. It conforms to the natural law of wheat in the shade and sorghum in the sun, and neutralization makes wine. Product characteristics: Zhanggong wine is a typical Central Plains Luzhou-flavor liquor, with the characteristics of "elegant cellar fragrance, harmonious fragrance, sweet and refreshing, and long tail", "high-alcohol liquor is high but not violent, and low-alcohol liquor is low but not light". Due to the differences in climate, raw materials and craftsmanship, it is qualitatively different from the Luzhou-flavor liquor of Sichuan. 38-degree Zhanggong wine is a national benchmark product for low-alcohol Luzhou-flavor liquor. The inheritance and improvement of Zhanggong wine's traditional craftsmanship has great historical value, social value, scientific value and economic value. Historical value: Zhanggong wine brewing techniques have been passed down for thousands of years, benefiting the people of one side. The brewing methods of dragging board koji, mixing medium and high temperature koji, row of double wheel bottom, storing wine in wooden wine sea, and low-alcohol wine production technology have benefited the world and promoted the development of China's entire winemaking industry and even all walks of life in society. The history of Zhanggong wine is a history of the development of Chinese civilization and a "living fossil" of my country's winemaking history. Social value: Zhanggong wine produced with traditional brewing technology is highly favored by the world. Zhanggong wine must be served at weddings, childbirth, harvest celebrations, major festivals, and gatherings of relatives and friends within a radius of 100 miles. There are dozens of drinking orders alone. Zhanggong wine enriches the lives of local people. Scientific value: Researching and exploring the origin and development of Zhanggong wine's traditional brewing technology can provide detailed first-hand information for revealing the origin, development laws, geographical environment and growth process of Chinese liquor brewing, and for studying China's rural political and economic development and the evolution of farmers' living customs and beliefs. Economic value: For a long time, Zhanggong wine brewed by traditional technology has been the pillar industry of Ningling County. It has played an important role in solving local employment, promoting farmers' income, and driving the development of related industries such as grain planting, printing, transportation, and catering. The key links of the traditional Zhanggong wine brewing process are all completed manually, which is technology-intensive, difficult, has a long learning cycle, and low remuneration. Young people are reluctant to learn. With the adjustment of agricultural planting structure, the main raw materials for brewing, such as sorghum (kaoliang), have low yields and prices, resulting in a decline in planting area and a shortage of grain for brewing. Modern machinery and chemical products are constantly replacing traditional brewing utensils and materials, such as machine koji making instead of manual koji stepping, etc. Low-quality liquor is impacting traditional solid-state brewing. The above reasons have caused the traditional Zhanggong wine brewing process to be lost. In June 2009, the traditional brewing technique of Zhanggong wine was included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of Henan Province.

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