Drinking customs of the Zhuang people in Tiandong

Guangxi
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The Zhuang people living in the rural areas of Tiandong County have always drunk wine in the way of "soup goes and soup comes back" whenever they have a party with friends or entertain guests from afar. According to some surveys, this is a "unique" way of drinking among the more than 2,700 ethnic groups in the world. The Zhuang people in Tiandong are not used to drinking directly with a big bowl, nor do they like to use wine glasses. They often use spoons. Before drinking, pour the wine into a large bowl, and then the host and the guest toast each other. The host uses a spoon to scoop a spoonful of wine from the large bowl and send it to the guest's mouth. The other party must drink it, otherwise it is not "face". After drinking the wine toasted by others, you must return the toast. The guest also picks up another spoon, scoops a spoonful of wine from the large bowl, and sends it back to "pour" into the host's mouth. No matter how long the drinking takes, this "you come and I go" method is used, which is the so-called "soup goes and soup comes back". Most of the wine that Zhuang people drink is homemade corn wine, commonly known as "earth Maotai", which is very delicious. Even if you get drunk, you will be fine after a good sleep, which is the real "drunk without getting drunk". The dishes served with wine are not very "special", sometimes a plate of fried peanuts, corn kernels and soybeans can be served. The hospitality of Zhuang people will let you know what "hospitality" is and what "difficult to refuse" is! After several rounds of "soup goes and soup comes back", after a few taels of wine are poured into the heroic stomach, "intimate" words often come out of their mouths. For example, if a cousin comes, the host will say "when will the cousin come, cut the 'corpse horse' and send wine". It means that the cousin rarely comes once, although there is no wine and food to send, "love is full of water", and must "get drunk". If a guest from afar comes, the host will modestly say: "Tiandong Zhuang people are unreasonable, entertaining guests with rice (that is, corn dishes and corn wine)". If the guest is "well-informed", he will answer: "The Zhuang people in Tiandong are reasonable. They give rice to guests!" By saying "no" as "yes", just changing one word, he gave a very "reasonable" response to the host and pushed the drinking atmosphere to "0". Zhuang people generally like to compete in drinking, and often take it as "proud" to "get" friends who come to their home to drink drunk. If the guest cannot drink, the host will say "the guest is stupid if he doesn't drink". On the contrary, if the host cannot drink, the guest will say "the host is stingy if he doesn't drink". This is a "provocation method". How can a dignified host "lose" such face? So he can only "prefer to hurt his body rather than hurt his feelings" and "sacrifice his life to accompany the gentleman". If there are a large number of guests, and they "come prepared", and each of them is a "huge drinker", but it is often "difficult for a strong dragon to suppress a local snake". The host will call the "drinking stars" of the entire family or even the entire village to participate in the "battle". People who come later are generally "punished to drink three soups later" and can only participate in the "battle" after drinking "three soups". But at this time, the guests have usually already "drank three rounds", and the latecomers will take advantage of their "advantage" that they haven't drunk much, and after "gulping down" the three soups of penalty wine, they will immediately offer the guests ten soups in a row, and sing the "Ten Soups Toasting Song" while offering: The first soup: Drink for the first meeting; the second soup: Good things come in pairs; the third soup: Three times good friends; the fourth soup: A peaceful year in all four seasons; the fifth soup: Fill the warehouse with grains; the sixth soup: Livestock fill the pen; the seventh soup: Wife and children are good; the eighth soup: Make a fortune and a wealthy family; the ninth soup: Live longevity; the tenth soup: Perfect beauty. In the ten soups of wine, from "first meeting", to "becoming good friends", to "peaceful seasons", and the family's "health, wealth, longevity" and "perfect life" and other blessings are all in it, and "expressive", so how can the guests refuse to drink? The result is that "the wine doesn't make people drunk, but people get drunk by themselves". A victory in a "drinking battle" will win the host a lot of "face" and "proud" for a long time. The guests who "ate" the "defeat" will often "feel bitter", and some will even think of the pain of the "failure" many years later, as long as they meet again at the wine table, they must take revenge for the "drunk". As the saying goes, "a gentleman's revenge is never too late, ten years later", how "refreshing"! It is said that this unique drinking custom of "soup goes and soup comes back" was "created" by Buluotuo, the ancestor of the Zhuang people. According to legend, Buluotuo traveled to the Ganzhuang Mountain area in Tianyang, and saw the green mountains, strange caves and dangerous peaks; the clear water was like a jade belt surrounding the mountains, what a magnificent mountain and river scenery. So he decided to breed a prosperous and peaceful nation here. Because of the magnificent mountains and rivers in this area, Buluotuo named this nation "Zhuang". Later, because Ganzhuang Mountain was the birthplace of the Zhuang people, the Zhuang people prospered and all industries were revitalized. Buluotuo named this place "Baiyu", which means that everything of the Zhuang people started from here. One year in the third month of the lunar calendar, the Zhuang people, who were able to live and work in peace and prosperity, decided to go to Ganzhuang Mountain to express their gratitude to their ancestor Buluotuo. After hearing the news, Buluotuo not only prepared wine and food by himself, but also asked the Zhuang families living at the foot of Ganzhuang Mountain to cook a big pot of porridge or rice to reward the Zhuang people and relatives who came from far and near to express their gratitude. He also repeatedly told people who came from afar not to bring food, because they were all family members and they would be entertained here. From the seventh to the ninth day of the first lunar month, people came to express their gratitude in an endless stream, and the foot of Ganzhuang Mountain was very lively. People sat on the ground, and bowls of rice wine and dishes were placed on the lawn and on the hillside. At the beginning of the party, Buluotuo smiled and said, "Thank you all for visiting me today. Let me propose that I toast each person with a bowl of wine, and then everyone will toast me with a bowl of wine. After that, everyone will toast each other. We will use this way of drinking to show the brotherhood among the Zhuang people and the friendship with other fraternal ethnic groups." After that, Buluotuo first scooped up the wine and toasted the people who thanked him. Then, it was the turn of the people who thanked him to pick up the bowl and scoop up the wine in return. After that, everyone scooped wine, persuaded each other, and drank. Somehow, everyone felt that this way of drinking was very harmonious, and the wine seemed to become sweeter as they drank, and everyone was very happy. In this way, during the three-day and three-night party, the Zhuang people toasted each other to their heart's content, sang folk songs, expressed their respect for the ancestor Buluotuo, and expressed the family affection and love between people. It’s strange to say, but from then on, whenever the Zhuang people drank wine, unless you gave me a spoonful and I gave you a spoonful in return, they would drink it in a toast, as if the wine tasted particularly bitter and even difficult to swallow.

Intangible culture related to the heritage

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